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CNC Machining Acrylic (PMMA)

Acrylic is chosen when the part has to look clear. Optically it beats polycarbonate, it polishes to a glass-like edge, and it holds its clarity outdoors for years. What it does not do is survive impact or stress — it is a brittle material, and a machined acrylic part succeeds or fails on how the design treats that.

CNC machined clear acrylic manifold block with polished faces
Grades

Cast against extruded

For machined parts this is the only choice that really matters, and cast wins on almost every count except price.

FormBest forNotes
Cast acrylic (GS)Machined parts, thick sections, polished edgesHigher molecular weight, machines and polishes far better, less prone to gumming and cracking
Extruded acrylic (XT)Thin flat parts where cost dominatesSofter, melts more easily at the cutter, chips more at edges
UV-stabilisedOutdoor signage and coversAcrylic is already good outdoors; stabilised grades are better again
Coloured and frostedDiffusers, lenses, decorative panelsAvailable in a wide range of tints and light-transmission levels
At the machine

Easy to cut, easy to ruin

Acrylic cuts cleanly with sharp, high-rake, polished-flute tooling and high spindle speeds. Feed too slowly and it melts and re-welds behind the cutter; feed too aggressively and it chips at the edges. There is a window, and cast acrylic has a much wider one than extruded.

Drilling is where most acrylic parts crack. A standard metal drill grabs as it breaks through and splits the material; acrylic-specific drill geometry, a slow break-through and support underneath are what prevent it.

Edges can be flame polished or vapour polished to optical clarity. Both are separate operations and both belong in the quote — a machined edge is matte, not clear, and customers who expect glass are disappointed by a part that was never quoted to be polished.

At a glance
Service temperatureAround 80 °C
Optical clarityBetter than polycarbonate; excellent light transmission
Impact resistanceLow — this is the trade against polycarbonate
WeaknessBrittle; cracks around fasteners and at sharp features
Typical partsLenses, diffusers, display panels, sight glasses, signage, light guides
Parts we run

CNC machined PMMA (acrylic) parts

Windows, light guides, display parts, manifold blocks and fixture plates — machined from cast acrylic sheet and rod. Cut edges can be flame-polished back to clear, and the material chips the moment a tool goes dull.

Machined acrylic block — PMMA (Acrylic), CNC machined at GY Machining
Machined acrylic block
CNC machined clear acrylic block with internal bores and threaded ports
Bored and threaded acrylic block
CNC machined clear acrylic plate with a bored pocket and pressed pins
Plate with a bored pocket and pins
CNC machined clear acrylic disc with a slotted rim, raised hub and cross-drilled bore
Disc with a slotted rim and a cross-drilled hub
Design notes

Four rules for machined acrylic

01

Say whether edges must be optically clear

Polishing is a separate operation. If the part needs it, it belongs on the drawing, not in a phone call after delivery.

02

Never clamp a bolt directly onto acrylic

Use a clearance hole, a washer and a shoulder or insert. A fastener torqued onto bare acrylic cracks it, if not immediately then in service.

03

Choose polycarbonate if anything can hit it

If the part is a guard rather than a window, impact matters more than clarity and polycarbonate is the right material.

04

Anneal before bonding, printing or tight tolerances

Machining leaves stress in the surface. If the part will be solvent-bonded, screen-printed, cleaned with alcohol, or holds a tolerance under ±0.05 mm, ask for an anneal after machining — it stops crazing and stops the part moving later.

Ready for a quote?

Send the drawing — price and lead time within 16 hours. STEP, IGES, X_T, DWG, DXF or PDF.
No minimum order.

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